Specs & engineering
The cheapest part of a pallet decides how long it lasts
Pallets rarely fail because a board broke. They fail because a joint let go, and the joint is the cheapest thing in the build.

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In short
Pallets come apart at their joints far more often than they break in their boards. The fastener type and its penetration into the stringer decide how many handling cycles a pallet survives.
Helically threaded nails are the pallet industry standard. Ring shank is stronger and used for hardwood and high-cycle service. Smooth shank is cheap and appropriate only for one-way. Staples are fast, cheap and the reason many bargain pallets shed boards.

Withdrawal resistance, in plain terms
Withdrawal resistance is how hard the fastener resists being pulled straight out. It is the number that matters, because that is the direction the load acts when a deck board is levered up by a fork tine or when a stack is dragged.
- Smooth shank relies purely on friction between steel and wood. As wood dries and shrinks, that friction falls. Cheapest, weakest, fine for a pallet making one trip.
- Helical (twisted) shank rotates as it drives, cutting a shallow thread. It resists withdrawal several times better than smooth and tolerates the wood movement that follows a change in moisture. This is the industry default and what we use on standard builds.
- Ring shank has annular rings that bite into the fibres. Highest withdrawal resistance, best in hardwood and in pallets expected to cycle many times. Harder to drive and to extract, which also makes repairs more work.
- Staples hold two thin pieces together quickly and cheaply. In a structural pallet joint under vibration, they work loose. We do not use them structurally, and a stapled companion stringer is not a repair we would accept.
Penetration matters as much as type
A fastener that only bites the surface of the stringer will pull out regardless of its shank pattern. Penetration into the receiving member is what generates the holding force.
This is where cheap builds cut corners invisibly. A shorter nail costs marginally less, drives marginally faster, and looks identical from above. It fails months later, and nobody connects the two events.
If you are comparing new-build quotes and one is surprisingly cheap, fastener length and pattern are worth asking about alongside moisture content. Both are invisible at delivery and decisive in service.
Why we pull nails instead of hammering them flush
When a grader finds a fastener standing proud of the deck, there are two options: hammer it back down, or pull it out.
Hammering is faster and it is what most yards do. It is also wrong. The nail is proud because it has already started to withdraw — the joint has loosened. Driving it back in does not restore the joint; it just puts the head where you cannot see it. Under the vibration of a truck ride, it migrates back out, and this time it does it inside a wrapped load, where it tears the film and scratches the product.
We pull them. It takes longer and it means the board sometimes has to be replaced. That is the correct outcome — a joint that has failed once should not be re-closed and shipped.
What this means when you buy
For reclaimed stock, fastener quality is already proven: a core that survived twenty round trips did not have a nail problem. This is a genuine and underrated advantage of used pallets.
For new builds, specify it. Helical as a baseline, ring shank if the pallet will cycle heavily or is being built in hardwood. It is a small cost against the life of the pallet.
For repairs, insist that companion stringers are glued *and* nailed, and that nothing structural is stapled. That is our standard and it is worth checking against anyone else's.
Takeaways
- Joints fail before boards do.
- Helical is the sensible default; ring shank for hardwood and high-cycle fleets.
- Penetration depth is invisible at delivery and decides service life.
- A proud nail means a loosened joint — hammering it flush hides the problem rather than fixing it.
Questions
Asked and answered
Why do pallets shed deck boards?
Almost always fastener withdrawal rather than board failure. Smooth shank nails, insufficient penetration, or staples in a structural joint are the usual causes, accelerated by wood shrinkage as green lumber dries.
Are stapled pallets bad?
For structural joints, yes. Staples work loose under vibration. They are acceptable for non-structural attachments and unacceptable for a companion stringer repair.
Written by
Dale Whitmer
Yard Manager
Runs the grading line and the repair bay. Has graded more pallets than he can estimate and still argues about deck coverage.
Disagree with something here? That is genuinely useful to us — several of these articles exist because a customer told us we had it wrong. Use the form at the top of the page or write to the yard directly.
Terms used here
Definitions live in one place so they cannot drift. Full list in the pallet glossary.
- Base
- The lowest structural layer of a pallet — bottom deck boards or, on a skid, the runners themselves.
- Companion stringer
- A repair stringer glued and nailed alongside a cracked original along its full length.
- Core
- An unsorted used pallet as received from a generator, before grading. The raw material of a pallet yard.
- Deck board
- A horizontal board forming the load-bearing surface of a pallet.
- Hardwood
- Wood from broadleaf trees — oak, maple, poplar, gum. Denser and more durable than softwood for pallet use.
- Stringer
- A lengthwise structural member, typically 1⅜″ × 3½″, forming the spine of a stringer pallet.
- Withdrawal resistance
- How firmly a fastener resists being pulled out. The property that determines how long a pallet stays together.
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